Expert Tips to Burn Firewood More Efficiently

The best firewood to burn means nothing if you’re burning it wrong. Whether you’ve invested in a suspended Focus, a slow combustion Stuv inbuilt, or a classic masonry hearth fireplace, the way you select, store, and fire your wood determines how much heat you actually get into the room, and how much you’re paying per degree.

Here’s what separates a fire that roars efficiently from one that smoulders and disappoints.

Quick Tips

• Moisture content below 20% is non-negotiable for an efficient, clean burn
• Australian hardwoods are the benchmark for heat output and longevity
• The top-down lighting method can reduce particle emissions by up to 80% compared to conventional fire-lighting
• Proper airflow and regular maintenance are as important as wood quality
• If you’re still using an old open fireplace, upgrading to an slow combustion insert can increase thermal efficiency from around 15% to 70% or more

1. Choose the Best Firewood to Burn

Wood species is your first decision, and one of the most consequential.

Ironbark delivers very high heat output with an exceptionally long burn time, making it best suited to slow combustion heaters and overnight burns. Red Gum provides high heat output and a long burn time, and performs particularly well in slow combustion heaters. For open fireplaces where you want a vibrant, visible flame, Yellow Box is worth considering for its combination of heat and strong ignition.

Wood density is what drives performance. You need more than twice the volume of pine to produce the same heat as Ironbark. However, softwoods like pine have their place as kindling or for getting a fire established quickly. But they’re not a primary fuel. 

The right species also depends on where you are. In Victoria and southern New South Wales, River Red Gum is generally considered the best all-round choice. In Queensland, Ironbark and Box are preferred. In Western Australia, Jarrah and Wandoo lead the field.

Our range ofwood fireplaces is engineered to perform with quality hardwoods. When you pair the right firebox with the right fuel, the difference in warmth and efficiency is immediately apparent.

2. Check Moisture Content

Green or freshly cut wood contains high moisture content (often above 50%), which means a significant portion of the energy produced during burning is wasted simply evaporating that moisture.

The result is a cooler fire, thicker smoke, and accelerated creosote build-up in your flue.

For wood to burn well, the moisture content should be below 25% and ideally between 12% and 20%. As a rough rule of thumb, it takes about 6–12 months for green wood to reach below 25%, depending on log diameter and initial moisture levels.

A moisture meter is the most reliable way to confirm your wood is ready. End-checks (the splits or cracks visible on the face of a log), a hollow sound when two logs are knocked together, and noticeably lighter weight are all good field indicators, but a meter removes the guesswork entirely.

3. Store Firewood the Right Way

Even perfectly seasoned wood will deteriorate if stored badly. The goal is to maintain low moisture content until it reaches the fire.

Stack your wood off the ground on pallets or a purpose-built rack in a covered area with good airflow on the sides. Cover the top to protect against rain, but leave the sides open to allow moisture to escape. Stacking with gaps between logs accelerates drying and prevents mould.

Bring your next day’s firewood indoors the evening before. Logs stored in a warm room overnight arrive at ambient temperature and ignite far more readily than cold wood pulled straight from an outside store.

4. Stack and Light the Fire Using the Top-Down Method

Most people were taught to build a fire the traditional way with newspaper and kindling at the base and larger logs on top. The top-down method reverses this entirely, and the results increase wood fireplace efficiency.

The top-down technique places the largest logs on the base, followed by smaller splits, then kindling, with your fire starter at the top. You light from the top, and the flame works its way down. The method enhances airflow and draft, minimises creosote formation, and requires less tending. It’s especially effective in modern fireplaces where clean combustion is essential.

The stove reaches its operating temperature faster, and the gases are combusted more efficiently. Crucially, never overload the firebox. Packing logs too tightly restricts airflow, which is the single biggest enemy of an efficient burn.

5. Manage Airflow and Damper Control

A fire needs oxygen to combust cleanly. Open the air vents fully when starting the fire, particularly during the first 20–30 minutes while the fire establishes itself and warms the flue. Once you have a strong, established burn, you can reduce the air slightly, but never so much that the flame becomes sluggish or yellow.

A slow, smouldering fire is an inefficient fire. Keep your flames bright and active. If you see thick white smoke from the chimney, the wood is either too wet or the airflow is too restricted, or both.

For inbuilt wood fireplaces, air control is typically more precise than an open hearth, which is part of what makes them so effective. The sealed or semi-sealed firebox means you’re directing combustion air exactly where it needs to go.

6. Maintain Your Fireplace for Peak Efficiency

The fireplace itself requires attention, not just the wood.

Have your flue inspected and swept annually by a qualified technician. Soot build-up is both a fire hazard and a performance issue. A partially blocked flue restricts the draw, directly reducing combustion efficiency.

Check door seals and gaskets at the start of each season. A degraded seal allows uncontrolled air into the firebox, disrupting the careful balance between combustion air and heat retention. On high-end European fireplaces, replacement seals are generally straightforward to source and install.

Remove ash periodically, but not entirely. A thin bed of ash insulates the firebox floor and helps maintain combustion temperatures. 

7. Choose the Right Fireplace for Wood Burning Efficiency

The appliance itself is half the equation. An open fireplace, while beautiful, can convert as little as 10–15% of the wood’s energy into usable room heat – the rest escapes up the chimney. A quality in-built insert changes this equation dramatically, increasing a fireplace’s efficiency by a factor of five.

Contemporary European wood fireplaces from manufacturers like Stuv or Skantherm are engineered for combustion efficiency. Secondary combustion chambers, precision air control, and high-grade refractory materials all contribute to extracting the maximum heat from every kilogram of hardwood.

Get The Most From Your Fireplace

Getting the most from a wood fire is a combination of discipline and knowledge. Start with the right species, store it correctly, light it from the top down, maintain strong airflow, and keep the appliance itself in good condition.

Done well, a wood fire is one of the most satisfying and efficient forms of home heating available. Done poorly, it’s expensive, smoky, and underwhelming.

The wood fireplace you choose to house that fire matters just as much, which is why we work exclusively with European manufacturers whose engineering matches the quality that discerning homeowners expect.

If you’re designing or renovating and want expert guidance on wood fireplace efficiency, heat output, and which model suits your space, our team is here to help. Explore our wood fireplaces collection, or read our ultimate guide to freestanding wood fireplaces to understand which format and specification suits your home best.